Princess cut diamonds are a unique shape of diamond, appealing to those who crave a more modern look. They are also less expensive than round brilliant diamonds and other diamond shapes because most of the rough stone (up to 80%) is maintained in the cutting process. This fact makes princess cut diamonds appealing to investors.

In this brief guide to princess cut diamonds, we will cover the following topics:

• What is a princess cut diamond?

• What to consider when buying princess cut loose diamonds

• Investing in princess cut loose diamonds

The princess cut diamond is a relatively new cut of diamond, having been created in 1981 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz. There are, therefore, no antique pieces of jewellery with this cut, as it is only around 40 years old.

A princess cut diamond is described by the GIA as square modified diamonds, distinguishing them from the step cut facet arrangements of other square diamonds like the Asscher cut (which is the square variation of the traditional emerald diamond cut).

The cut offers excellent fire and brilliance and is designed from the inverted pyramid of the rough diamond stone. It holds much of its weight in the pavilion, so the face-up appearance of the finished diamond may appear smaller than other diamonds of a different shape but of a similar carat weight.

Princess cut diamonds also have 58 facets. Facets are the surfaces of a diamond, which allow it to receive, refract and reflect light. The more facets a diamond has, the more brilliance and sparkle it will emit.

As well as checking the diamond’s certificate and the 4 Cs (cut, clarity, colour and carat), you should make an effort to see the gem in person (or through a video call) to ensure you buy a beautiful investment diamond that is easy to sell later.

Shape: Princess cuts that have uneven sides of unequal proportions are less attractive. A square princess cut has a length-to-width ratio not exceeding 1:05:1. However, it is not uncommon for a princess cut diamond to be rectangular or tapered.

Symmetry: Draw an imaginary line down the length of the diamond to check if the facets on the right and left halves are the same shape and size. If they are symmetrical, it will enhance the overall beauty of the stone.

Scintillation: Look for a balanced contrast of light and dark patterns in the stone’s table and facets.

Avoid a pavilion bulge: If the pavilion from the girdle (the thin perimeter of the diamond) to the culet (the tiny point at the base of the pavilion, where the facets of the pavilion meet) is steep, it can create what is known as a ‘pavilion bulge’, making the stone look dark and adding extra weight. You can check this by looking at the diamond from the side (and preferable under a 10x loupe).

BNT Diamonds buys diamonds straight from the source to offer you the best quality diamonds at the best price. In addition, all our diamonds have passed through a renowned certification agency, such as GIA or HRD.